Masan Holi of Varanasi: A Different Tradition That Celebrates Life and Death
Holi, the colorful festival, is enjoyed throughout India with unprecedented zeal, but in Varanasi, there is a different and quite esoteric flavor that this celebration takes on. While everybody connects Holi with mischievous color battles and happy jubilation, the city of Varanasi, the religious hub of India, has a whole different approach towards enjoying this festival. It is celebrated here by a ritual called Masan Holi (Holi of the Dead).
Masan Ki Holi is a unique celebration that harmoniously unites the culture of life and death, representing the city's philosophy of living after death. It is an unusual but interesting celebration, quite distant from the conventional Holi celebrations. Let us go deeper into this unique celebration along the ghats of Varanasi, where the eternal dance of life and death is reflected.
What is Masan Holi?
In Varanasi, Holi is celebrated in a very unique manner at the Masan (cremation grounds) of the city. On the full moon night of Phalguna, when the rest of the country is celebrating Holi with colors, Varanasi’s masans are alive with fire, chants, and a symbolic celebration of life’s impermanence. Masan Holi is celebrated in the form of a ritual that honors the souls of the departed.
In this context, the term “masan” refers to the cremation ground, which is considered an important place in the city for liberation (moksha). It is believed that when a person is cremated at Varanasi’s ghats, they attain freedom from the cycle of birth and death. As such, Holi is not just a festival of colors here but also a celebration of souls that have passed on to their next journey.
The Origins and Symbolism of Masan Holi
The origin of Masan Ki Holi is deeply rooted in the traditions of ancient Shaivism and the religious thought of Varanasi, which worships Lord Shiva. The festival is a sacrifice to the souls of the dead and a means of expressing the fact that even in death, life remains. The entire concept is to rejoice in the cycle of life and death and the immortality of the soul.
This tradition of celebrating Holi in the cremation ground is specific to Varanasi. It is said that when the soul dies, it hangs around the spot where its final rites were carried out. Celebrating Holi festival in the masans, amidst fire, music, and dance, is a means of calling the dead souls to join the living in revelry.
Rituals of Masan Holi
Masan Ki Holi starts in the late evening and usually continues till midnight. As the sun goes down and the stars appear, the cremation grounds on the Ganges River's banks are turned into a carnival of fire, music, and prayer. Here's an idea of the rituals that are so special about this celebration:
- Bonfires at the Cremation Grounds: The showstopper of Masan Ki Holi is the bonfire. It represents the fire of transformation, that which converts life into death and death into life. The bonfire is ignited with the assistance of family members and devotees, and people come around to celebrate.
- Chanting and Prayers: The atmosphere is filled with the mantra, prayers, and devotional songs. Devotees chant divine hymns, seeking the blessings of the departed ones and welcoming them to the festivities. These prayers are done so that the souls get peace and release.
- Color and Ash: While the rest of India is throwing vibrant colors, in Varanasi’s masans, the colors are often symbolic. Ashes and colored powders are smeared on the foreheads of devotees and visitors alike. The ash is said to represent the impermanence of the material world and the colors symbolize the transformation of life.
- Dancing and Celebrating with the Departed Souls: Towards the latter half of the night, folk music and dholak beats echo through the atmosphere. Wearing white, individuals start dancing around the fire, doing traditional dances to pay respects to the dead souls. The atmosphere is celebratory, as dancers move not only for the living but also for the dead, celebrating their transition to another world.
- Bhoot Holi (Spirit Holi): There is one interesting local practice called Bhoot Holi that is celebrated here. In Bhoot Holi, the ghosts are said to leave their resting places for a short time to become a part of the celebration. The spirits are prayed to by devotees and their good health in the afterlife is wished by them.
Masan Holi and the Philosophy of Varanasi
Varanasi is usually referred to as the city of liberation or moksha because it is said that if someone dies there, their soul becomes free from the cycle of birth and rebirth. The city revolves a lot around the concept of life after death, and Masan Ki Holi is a manifestation of this immortal belief.
Unlike the conventional Holi festival of colours and life, in Masan Ki Holi there is a deep recognition of death. It is the belief that life and death are complementary to each other and cannot do without each other. The festive celebration of Holi here is a recognition of this dual nature, celebrating the living along with the souls of the dead.
The Spiritual Experience of Masan Holi
For tourists who might get lucky and see Masan Ki Holi, it's a deeply religious experience. The combination of life and death, the flames, the ashes, the colors, and the chanting is an electric atmosphere that is both spooky and thrilling. The celebration gives one a glimpse into the heart of Varanasi, where death is not something to be shunned but embraced as part of the cycle of life.
This celebration defies the stereotype of Holi being an event of pure joy. At Varanasi, it is a reminder that death is not the end but a transition. The color thrown at Masan Ki Holi is as much a representation of life as the celebration of souls who have passed on, filling the air with a sense of equality between the world of the living and the world of the dead.
Conclusion
Masan Ki Holi in Varanasi is a festival beyond festivals. It is an experience deep within that extols the continuity of life after death, and reminds one of the ephemeral nature of the material world. It provides a glimpse into the spiritual richness of the city and its profound knowledge about the transience of life.
If you ever have the opportunity to see this strange celebration, don't pass it up. It's an experience that will remain with you forever, just as Varanasi remains with all of those who go there